This swell arrived on time. Head high with some overhead sets and perfect conditions. Uncle Barry on a smooth one.
Perfect conditions all morning long.
Just like every spot in the world, the early mornings are local surfer time. Ride a few good waves and go straight to work. That’s Hawaiian style.
Kyle dropping in on Malcom. Kyle surprised, and Malcolm smiling the whole way.
I fell on a wave and the impact of the wave smashed my cheek into my teeth. That was the first time in my life something like that happened to me. I thought I broke my teeth but it was just a big cut inside my mouth. Blood gushing out but kept on surfing.
15 minutes of bleeding and then it disappeared. The ocean fixes everything. A very happy and humbling day…
