Medium Rare

11

Forgot to upload some photos from yesterday.  The clouds were amazing once again.  And so were the waves.

Yesterday was one of those rare days when only locals surfers were out.  Lots of waves and lots of happy surfers.  

I dropped in on Malcolm and was watching him trying to get out of the impact zone.

And he came out with a smile!  

This morning was a lot smaller and inconsistent.  But still good to be in the ocean doing off the lips.  Local time again.

I like Kawika’s surfing style.  Super smooth and strong.  Also one of the nicest guys out there.

I bought a new grill for my BBQ and that’s all I’ve been using recently.  Steak cooked medium rare to perfection!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide