Sudden Boat Trip

12

We got to the Bowls parking lot early this morning and when I saw the direction of the swell, I thought somewhere else might be better.  So we jumped back into the car and on the boat and went searching.

We pulled up to a secret spot and saw perfect empty waves.  So many waves and nobody around.  Nakahodo-san couldn’t wait.  

He jumped in and paddled his fastest to the peak.  He had the whole ocean all to himself.

Then the girls paddled out and we all had 3 hours of fun.  The waves kept on coming and coming and we just kept on riding and riding.  

Nakahodo-san was super happy.  Coming to Hawaii yesterday and scoring these kind of waves is what surfers dream of.

We passed by Bowls on the way back and the waves looked fun.  

I took this photo on the way in and when I looked at it good, it looks like Trinko!  

Came in, washed the boat, then went for a roast duck/char siu/ginger chicken plate lunch.  One of the best mornings in a long time.  I was talking to Toda-san about not needing to go on expensive boat trips anymore.  Why?  Because we have this!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide