Mornings and Afternoons

11

Round 1:  An epic morning with the girls.  Today’s challenge was to catch as many waves as possible.  Each girl got 20 waves which was a success.

Once again, perfect conditions.  Waist with a couple chest high sets and perfect.

Kyle likes it at any size.

There was a tsunami watch the other night.  A big earthquake in Alaska at 8:49pm while I was sleeping.  I looked at my texts the next morning and one of them said to take your boat out of the harbor immediately.  Thank goodness I was already sleeping.

Scrubbing the barnacles off the bottom is therapeutic.  A great workout with a sense of taking care of something you love.

It takes about 30 minutes which includes long and short breath holds.

I’ve been surfing the afternoons for the past month.  And it’s been really good!

Oshima-san last week on a good one.  Perfection!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide