Tsunami Calling: Yesterday Busy Day

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Round 1:  Early morning surf with Ozeki-san.  Nice rides and nice surfer.

Enjoying the ride.

Slow waves and lots of locals.

Mighty Mouse almost becoming a local surfer girl.

Perfect waves and clean conditions.

Round 2:  Tsunami watch posted.  We get to Diamond Head and the waves were good.

Right here is when the tsunami watch was upgraded to a tsunami warning.  We had 4 hours to spare so enough time for a quick session.

In my mind was “Keep calm and go take Mayuki out to sea.”  That’s my protocol for tsunami warnings.  BUT, the traffic was completely stopped!  It took me 1 hour and 40 minutes to get to Ala Moana.  I ended up parking my car at the shopping center and riding a bike I borrowed from Mateus.

I get out around 6pm and watched hundreds of other boats heading out to safety.  I’ve never seen something like this before.  So cool to see all the boaters taking things seriously.

Here was an idiot surfing at Bowls about 20 minutes before the tsunami was expected to arrive.  I think some people can be so naive when it comes to Mother Nature.  I’ve seen with my own eyes what a tsunami can do.  It should be taken more seriously.

The DNLR police were out in the ocean making sure everybody was out of the water.  The tsunami was supposed to hit at 7:10pm and when I looked on the beach at Waikiki, I could see a few people standing on the beach watching the ocean.  I stopped caring about people that don’t respect nature, laws, and safety.  All it does is put others in danger.   Spent most of the night out floating outside of Waikiki.  It was a little nervous, but beautiful at the same time.  I really needed that time of silence and peace.  Thank goodness nothing bad happened.  Thank you to all my friends and family in Japan and Hawaii for reaching out to me.  Keep safe…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide