Life is a Battlefield

10

Summer is here again!  The biggest swell of the year arrived today.  And there are 2 or 3 more big swells coming very soon.  I’m so excited!

Round 1:  Early morning Bowls.  Overhead sets and so good!  It was so good to surf big waves again.  The girls were so happy!

Michael Ho out ripping the new swell.  

Round 2:  OMG, the waves got a lot bigger this afternoon.  It was double overhead!  I took 2 high performance pro model boards for the girls to try.  I can’t believe they even made it out to the lineup.  The waves were big and wild but they caught so many waves.

We practice and practice for days like this.  We train everyday at different spots, different conditions, and different boards.  So when I saw the girls charging this afternoon, it made me so proud.  This was the biggest right of the day!  Go Rocky!  

We had the best session.  Only crazy surfers catch the rights at Bowls and paddle back out again and again on big days like this.  They were just happy to survive.  Haha.  I ended up getting 3 good barrels so I’m sleeping with a smile on my face.

The girls had no idea what they were riding because I told them it doesn’t matter.  So when we finished surfing, I told them to check the dimensions on the bottom of their boards.  One was a 6’6 Josh Moniz pro model shaped by Kerry Tokoro.  And the other one was a 6’3 Seth Moniz pro model shaped by Wade Tokoro.  They were riding real pro surfers personal surfboards.  They were so happy when they found out.

A day like today will boost anyones confidence.  The waves were so big this afternoon that only good experienced surfers were out.  These were the only 2 women and they caught the biggest waves this afternoon.  Now they know why Boot Camp is important because today was like going into a big battlefield.  The fight of their lives!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide