Nature First, Girls Second

12

Round 1:  We pulled up to Diamond Head in the dark and watched the day starting to light up.  

Bowls was small, Diamond Head was medium, so we headed to the East side for larger waves.  

30 minute drive and it felt like we’re in a different country.  Lots of waves and lots of energy in the ocean.

We must have been surfing over a bait ball because there were hundreds of birds circling us.  

They fly so close you could almost touch them.

The girls were having so much fun.  This spot is very dangerous and very alive.  Just to survive a session out here without scratches or cuts is a success.

I didn’t film the girls because I was too busy filming the birds.  Nature first, girls next.  Haha.

You just sit on your board in silence watching all the action.  I didn’t even care to catch a wave.  You can always surf but you can’t always experience something like this.

Round 2:  We go back to Diamond Head and it’s good!  Head high sets and 1 minute rides.  

I don’t know where this girl gets all her energy from.  I’ve been going to bed at 6:30pm recently.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide