Positive Energy

18

Round 2:  Afternoon at Bowls.  Chest high sets and good.  Look at this Hang 10!

It’s so cool to see people taking their dogs out to surf.  The dog looks so happy when riding waves.  They had some crazy wipeouts but the dog just gets back on the board and wants to go again.  So cool!

Round 1:  Shoulder high sets and inconsistent.

And lots of people patiently waiting for waves.  It’s been really crowded in the mornings recently.

Mighty Mouse caught 4 really good waves this morning.  Taking off better and surfing a lot faster.

Round 2 again:  The waves were so smooth.  Perfect for riding a longboard.  Ogasawara-san has so much positive energy.  She loves surfing so much which is very nice to see.

Then we challenged on the mid-length board.  Super success!  Ogasawara-san’s goal is to surf a shortboard under 6′ and I think she will do it very soon.  You just have to enjoy the process!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide