Be Careful Surfer

14

Round 1:  The girls were ripping this morning!  They were practicing how to take off on the perfect part of the wave and flow into their first turn.  

The conditions were perfect.  No wind and very peaceful.  Only 1 or 2 other surfers were out so the girls caught so many waves.   I just watched.  Haha.

Taking off in the right part of the wave is important.  If you do that, your speed and flow will get you going in the direction for your first turn.  You must keep low during the bottom turn.

Then you push on your back foot and the board will generate speed.  This is when you chose which maneuver you want to do.

In this situation, the cutback was the perfect choice.  Well done!

Round 2:  Afternoon sun, warm water, and perfect waves again.  Mighty Mouse taking out a longer board to get the longer rides.

Hashimoto-san was looking healthier and happier than ever.  Surfing good on so many waves!  

Rocky was connected with the board, ocean, and herself.  

Surfing can be dangerous for both surfer and photographer.  Surfer was underwater almost hitting the reef, and photographer almost got hit in the head with a flying surfboard.  Please be careful surfer!  Haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide