good morning. 6:30am and the waves are BIG on the north shore. solid 10′ at pipe but forget going out there because the bodyboard contest will probably be on. town is small but still clean and fun. 8 guys out at bowls. hey, if your up now, take a look out the window and look at the pink sky. one of the nicest sunrises i’ve seen in a while. it’s going to be a beautiful day so get out there and enjoy!! have a nice day!!!
**check out more photos from yesterday in town…
surfing is about having fun. when ever i surf in town, i always have fun. on the north shore, it’s another story. it gets tense at times. but not at bowls…
this is my favorite photo from yesterday. this girl took off and the wave was barreling behind her. i gave her a go-naminori sticker and hope she sees her photos someday. gallery up soon…
this guy asked me how much my water housing costs. after i told him, he looked at me like i was crazy or something. am i?
and last, the waves might be small for adults. but head high for the kids is more than enough. we paddled to this little inside right and kairi had it to himself. since last year when i first met kairi, his surfing level went up 4 levels. i was pushing him into waves last year but from now on, he’s on his own. watch out for this kid from osaka…
**and last. tomorrow only!!! feb. 24th TWO FREE TACOS FROM JACK IN THE BOX. PRINT THIS OUT. I’M GOING TO PRINT 5 AND DRIVE AROUND THE DRIVE-THRU 5 TIMES. 10 FREE TACOS!! MAYBE I SHOULD KEEP SOME COLD CORONA’S IN THE COOLER? SEE YOU AT TACO BELL. OH, I MEAN JACK IN THE BOX….
