Local Surfers Rest Time

15

Round 1:  We challenged ourselves at another spot this morning.  Only 1 guy out so we scored a perfect 2 hour session of perfect wave after wave.

The ocean was calm, the waves were fun, and the surfing was great!  Today we focused on weight distribution and arm movement.  Rocky’s surfing is going up another level.

Unlike Bowls, the water was very clear here.

A very localized spot but there was only 1 local out all morning.  Thank you for sharing!

It amazes me how you can still go surfing with nobody around.  A lot of surfers are spoiled because this has been the best summer in a while.  BUT, we are never spoiled.  Everyday is a challenge, and everyday is a learning experience.  It’s days like today where you can practice style and technique.

I got barreled this morning, and when Rocky saw that, she tried to get barreled too.  Maybe next time girl.  Haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide