A long day!

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wow, i can’t believe i surfed today for 5 hours. the waves were so fun!
yayoi-san and i just kept catching wave after another. time just flew
by. i have to say that where ever i am in the world, i’m enjoying every
minute of it. hawaii is my home and i love this place, but there are so
many other places in the world i love too, and other places in the world
i would like to visit, then maybe love. everybody’s been asking me how
my last trip was. know my answer? just a big smile and i say
“unbelievable.” i can’t explain how good it was in just a 2 minute
conversation.
anyway, i’m home. i’m enjoying my little simple life. i’m enjoying my
lovely job. and i’m enjoying the ocean as usual. it’s time to work hard,
and play harder. all my friends from japan are either here, or coming
this week. i’m looking forward to catching up on things and having fun.
as for the photo, i was driving home just now and wanted to show you a
rainbow. i see this all the time coming up my hill on the way home. no,
i don’t live in a million dollar house on the beach. i live in a small
house tucked away in the valley. it’s cool, it’s quite, and it’s full of
rainbows. can’t beat it!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide