I went to look at Diamond Head this morning and it was super small. The biggest sets were stomach high but very long rides. There were only a few surfers out and it looked fun.
So I get back in my car, take a long drive, and arrive at my secret spot. The rocks were so slippery but I couldn’t wait to surf because it was only me again! Thank goodness I didn’t fall. I was so excited to try out Joshua Moniz’s board.
When I first paddled out on it, it felt like a toothpick. It was very narrow and thin that I had a hard time balancing on it. But once I took off on my first wave, it felt like magic. Very sensitive and very responsive. I felt like a teenager again!
I went out this morning to challenge myself so that’s why I took this board. Surfing felt so alive again!
HIC shaped by Kerry Tokoro. OMG, Josh is going to have a hard time getting this surfboard back from me. Haha. I’m definitely going to try it on better waves.
Came home to a beautiful rainbow. Rain, sun, showers, and clouds. I love winter in Hawaii!
