good morning. it’s 6:30am and i’m freezing cold. the winds are blowing outside and the waves look junky on the north shore. and it looks like the waves came down too. i see some 5′ sets at pipe with windy conditions. town is much cleaner but kind of small. got a lot of things to do today. pick up boards, send boards, check out a new spear gun, and computer work. busy busy busy… these are the days to get those little things done because once the winds stop and the waves get good, i’m surfing all day….
went to jack in the box yesterday to claim my 2 free tacos..
what a deal….
then it was to the beautiful east side to give wade tokoro a visit. gosh, his backyard is so green…
bert ishimaru works for wade tokoro surfboards. bert and i grew up surfing against each other back in the nssa contest days. he was leaving to the airport for a trip to australia to hand deliver mick fannings surfboard made by wade. he’ll probably be riding this 6’0 in the WCT contest coming up soon….
wade and the boys have been filming pipe recently. he showed me some footage of the last good day. holy cow!!! check this wave of japanese charger takayuki wakita taking a hell drop at pipeline on a 10′ set. can you believe he made this? the video is crazy!!! wakita is crazy…
