Round 1: Dawn patrol in the dark again. Waist high waves with perfect glassy conditions. 
All the local Uncles were out. No visitors.
Matsui-san got out early and this was his first wave. It was the best right of the morning. So perfect and so beautiful.
I was following closely behind cheering him on. The view I had as so amazing. 
Then he went too fast and I couldn’t keep up. 
Round 2: Still morning. Still waist high but sunny and warm. 
Surfing with Oku-san after our last meeting 6 years ago. So good to see him again so happy and healthy. 
Fun waves, warm morning, and long rides. Good to surf with all you boys today!
