Before I paddled out to Rocky Point, I had a plan. Get out and catch as many waves as possible. Sorry for the 2 guys I dropped in on. I had to stick to my plan. I thought I was surfing Bowls and forgot to look behind. Haha. 
I was so happy to see the coconut trees growing back at Haleiwa! Last year they were all dead and were supposed to get cut down. 
It’s dark, it’s early, and only 7 guys out. I rode my 5’11 shortboard so it was a little challenging catching waves. The current was super strong and the waves were very thick. It’s times like this where you have to 100% commit yourself. I’ll never pull back so I’m either going to succeed, or fail.
It’s been a long time since I rode a powerful wave like this on my magic shortboard. It’s fine at Bowls but it felt so small and unstable on the North shore. But like I tell my students, “no excuses.” Use it, feel it, and connect to it. 
The waves were so good and I was planning to surf Backdoor after this. I rode this last wave in to the shore, then right before I jumped off my board, all the water in the ocean disappeared. I was rolling on the dry reef on my stomach. The ocean pulling me back as I was stuck and I saw the whole ocean coming back right for me. Then I got smashed! 
So no 2nd round of surfing, I think I had enough. I would have been pushing my luck if I surfed Backdoor after this…
