PRESENTS FROM JAPAN….

229

good morning. same junky waves like yesterday but much smaller. some surfers are calling it the worst winter ever. i think it’s pretty bad but it ain’t over yet… i still have hope and i still want to get barreled so i’m thinking positive. you should too….

this was laniakea at 6:20pm last evening. junky….

check out this shochu bottle with gold flakes inside. cool… it was a present from kimura-san for tony and tammy. after they drink it, they are going to turn into gold. serious…

another present from kimura-san brought from japan. it’s called shu-cream. whoever eats it is going to get fat. serious…

now this is serious. i took this photo when i was at the hospital when masato got hurt. it was a really nervous time for me. CAT scan is a serious thing and waiting for the results is nerve racking. thanks goodness everything turned out ok…

and last, ALOHA FROM HAWAII….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide