Shoulder Razor Reef

10

I woke up this morning and looked at the sky.  It was clear and I thought it would be a super sunny day.  Then I drove to the beach and the thick clouds blocked out the sun.  It was actually an amazing sunrise watching it from the ocean.

I knew my secret spot would be good this morning so I didn’t even have to check.  I just grabbed my board and paddled 15 minutes out.  Nobody around and perfect rights all to myself.  Shoulder high and powerful waves breaking over razor sharp reef.  That’s why nobody goes out there.

I was at the Sheraton early in the morning.  Only in Hawaii you will see a Santa Clause on a surfboard.  That’s cool!

Just a couple days ago, a 60 year old man pressed on the accelerator by mistake and rammed into the Sheraton main lobby wall.  Two people were seriously injured and thankfully nobody died.  If you go to the Sheraton, you know there are lots of people standing right there all day long.

Accidents happen so please be alert at all times.  Watch the roads and not your iPhone.  Be safe…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide