Humbling to Exciting

21

Round 1:  Early morning at Bowls with the boys.  Fun waves, clean conditions, warm weather, and long rides.

Matsuda-san’s first time surfing in Hawaii.  He was ripping every wave and paddling back out with the biggest smile.

Perfect day to enjoy the surfing culture in Hawaii for the first time.  It was uncrowded again so lots of waves for everyone.

Nakahodo-san had a very humbling experience for Round 2 yesterday.  So today he focused on quantity of waves over quality of waves and ended up with both.

It’s so nice to surf Bowls in the winter when it feels like summer.  The boys surfed good today and went home happy.

Round 2:  Passing Diamond Head and observing how green it is now.  It’s the greenest it’s ever been.  We had a wonderful afternoon surf session.  The waves were half the size as yesterday but much cleaner conditions.  Yesterday was humbling, today was exciting!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide