New Channel Bottom

16

This morning we scored the North shore!  Overhead sets and perfect conditions!  One of my best sessions of the year so far!

The last storm was crazy.  We were out in the ocean and all of a sudden, the winds turned strong onshore and the rain came down heavy.  This is very rare and happens once in many years.  It’s a little scary because you can’t see anything.  

You can’t even see if a wave is going to break on your head.  And you can’t even see land so you have no idea which way to go.

I saw Nakahodo-san trying to see but it was impossible.  That was such a great experience.

When it rains like that, all the rubbish from the rivers flow into the ocean.  As Nakahodo-san was doing a bottom turn on this perfect wave at Bowls yesterday, there was a big crate that popped up right under his surfboard.  

Now there is a nice channel in the bottom of the board.  OMG! Shock!

 

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide