the hardest place in the world to catch a wave has to be Pipeline. i know surfers who paddled out and can’t even catch a wave. the waves are dangerous, the reef is dangerous, and the locals are dangerous. there is nothing safe about pipeline and if you paddle out there and can’t catch a wave, don’t be embarrassed because your not alone. and when that day comes when you do get a golden wave, it could be the best wave of your life. keep on surfing!
remember that old movie called “Old Yeller?” i watched it when i was a kid and remember crying because they had to put the dog to sleep. this is a golden retriever. one of the smartest dogs in the world.
this is where you check backdoor. ushikoshi and kondo-san yesterday. 10 years ago, there would be 30 japanese here. now, only the hardcore come to hawaii.
the waves have been unbelievable. waves on the south, and north. what more can you ask for? i’m living a surfers dream in surfers paradise. big north/west swell on saturday, and bigger one next monday. south swell all week with perfect conditions. Go-Naminori!
