Round 1: I drove to look at the ocean this morning and when I saw the overhead swells coming from the west, I remembered a spot that only works on swells like this. I drive 40 minutes, paddle out 40 minutes, and we’re there all alone. The most perfect overhead barrels, sharp reef, and memorable rides.
We surfed for a couple of hours all to ourselves. Paddled 40 minutes back in, drove 50 minutes and I was home. I haven’t surfed this spot in 6 years and when the next west swell comes, I’m straight back there. I felt like an out of country surf trip today.
Round 2: It was so fun surfing this afternoon at Bowls. Onshore winds and very challenging. 
Sawadzu-san caught some really nice and long rides. 
64 years old and surfing like a young boy. Perfect style!
