good evening. another windy day with stormy surf but if you knew where to look, you could have scored… east wind swell, north/east trade winds? yup, sandy beach…
i pulled up there around 11am today and the waves were going off. overhead and only 3 surfers and one stand up paddler. i guess nobody knew the waves were good out there because nobody was around. today is saturday and sandy beach was the spot. only the other 4 surfers and me knew that…
even the shorebreak was fun. if i was a bodyboarder, i would be all over that. getting big barrels at sandy beach shorebreak is so fun….
then i went to check out diamond head and the waves were waist/chest high and weak. sandy’s was way better…
i wanted to thank abe-san for telling me where that secret spot on the last blog i posted was. i’m so stoked to have such nice people reading my blog. i will make it to your beautiful island someday. and if your there, let’s go surf and dive. or better yet, let’s go surf, dive, barbecue, and drink beer. hawaiian style… and i swear to you that i won’t tell anybody where it is. thanks for the email and photos… i’ll only post this one… nice fish….
and last, i caught this kid taking a piss on the side of the road today. shame on you…
**and last last, i’m still trying to catch up with emails and stuff. sunday and monday i dedicated to doing that so you’ll hear from me soon. thanks for understanding…
