wake up 4:30, paddle out 6:45, paddle in 9:30, shoot till 10:15, back home at 11:30, lunch, work, wash car, gas, bank, insurance company, and many many more. so busy everyday. help!!!
it was good to see so many japanese surfers out today at backdoor this morning. the waves were perfect, the conditions were perfect, and if your a surfer or photographer, today was your dream day. for me, 2 dreams came true. haha. surf and shoot, what a great life! see that guy holding the yellow camera? that’s Kamio from japan. one of the few photographers left in this world working from the heart.
i see guys doing big airs, i see guys doing 360’s, i see guys flying all over the place on waves. but to me, power surfing never gets old. this is a power turn, and when you do power turns, you will see the results in the big spray. i love this photo.
this is one of my friends sons, Kaisa. this kid is always smiling, and always in hawaii. good job kaisa! and hello mommy yukari-san!
when ever i’m out in the water, i’m not only surfing. i’m watching what’s going on around me. i’m watching who’s getting the waves and who isn’t. and every time i see a japanese kid get good waves at one of the heaviest localized spots in the world, it makes me happy. this kid was staying in the inside getting barreled out of his mind! who is this japanese unknown surfer kid?
