I drove out to the North shore early this morning. I wanted to surf alone so I went to check this secret spot. The waves were going off! Nobody out. Overhead and strong powerful rights. It’s a very far paddle out. The water was still dirty because of all the rain. This place is infested with sharks when the water is clean so going out there when it’s dirty is very risky. I had one of the best sessions I had in a while.
I was sitting on the beach watching wave after wave being unridden. I paddle out and have the whole ocean to myself. I was having fun but to be honest, I couldn’t stop thinking about the big sharks out there. 30 minutes later, Ross Williams paddles out. I told him how happy I was to see him. I wanted to give him a big hug. Haha. He also knows about the big sharks out there so I’m sure he was happy to see me too. We talk about surfing, coaching, surfboards, fins, and life. We ended up surfing for 2 hours trading waves and had a great time. The drive home was a happy one.
My late Grandma Fukunaga gave my sister some dolls she collected throughout her life. My sister kept them and now she is passing it down to her grandchildren. When I saw it, so many memories of my grandma came back. She was the coolest grandma ever!
And it’s always good to see my family keeping healthy and happy!
