Nothing beats this view driving to the beach. Strong trade winds, medium tide, east swell, and wild. I was so excited to surf today.
Before I paddled out, I sat on the beach and watched the sun rise. I was in no rush as the waves were only going to get better and better throughout the day.
And it got better and better by the hour. I rode a bigger board and sat on the outside catching the sets. Not too many surfers out today as this girl got a good one.
I love surfing Diamond Head like this. It’s not easy to surf but if you know where to wait and have the right surfboard, you will have a great time. If you don’t know where to wait or have the wrong surfboard, it will be a nightmare session.
This was my original itinerary for Japan. But to pay $3,389 for a round trip on ANA, no thank you. I searched for a ticket to anywhere else but Japan and found a rare deal. It took 10 seconds for me to click “BOOK AND PAY.” Can’t wait for to fly!
