Packing, Coconuts, and Bonus Surf Sessions

9

I checked out of my room 3 hours down the road yesterday with the understanding that my surf trip was over.  I’m surfed out and thought I’d spend these next few days just eating and exploring.  My new boards were nicely packed and ready for the long trip back to Hawaii.

I’ve never stayed in this area of Bali before so I had no idea there would be waves.  I walked 20 minutes to the beach yesterday afternoon and when I saw perfect waves with nobody out, I ran back to my hotel, unpacked my surfboard, and ran back to the beach.  The waves were so fun!  I came in, ate an ice cold coconut, and sat on the beach under an umbrella like a tourist.  

My advice is always to keep money in your surf trunks at all times.  If I didn’t have this money, I wouldn’t have been able to buy this $1.50 coconut.  

This villa would cost over a thousand dollars anywhere else in the world but not here.  You won’t even find the cheapest hotel in Hawaii for this price.  And this includes breakfast made for you in your private kitchen by a butler.  

I found this really good Chinese restaurant nearby.  The roast pork was tender and juicy.  $3 for this.

And the Hong Kong knuckle noodle soup was the best.  $5 for this.  It’s unbelievable how cheap and good the food here is.  

Since yesterday was so good, I decided to wake up this morning at 4am, work out, run the 20 minutes to the beach, and surf the sunrise all to myself.  

We don’t have beach breaks like this in Hawaii so this is a highlight for me.  I surfed it for 2 hours and nobody came out.  Then ran back to my hotel, ate breakfast, and took a long nap.  Now I’m going to visit my friend and maybe buy another surfboard.  I guess this surf trip isn’t over until it’s over.  Haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide