There is a very secret beach break in Indonesia that I surfed all alone. On the high tide, it’s very long and breaks like Trestles. Good place to practice your cutbacks. On low tide, it’s a fast barrel. Good to practice barrel rides.
Surfing right in front of the resort I stayed at. Surf, eat, surf, sleep. I can see this place becoming crowded and crazy like Canggu in a few years. I don’t think it will stay a secret for too much longer. In the meantime, please don’t ask me where it is because I won’t tell you.
Working with Mike Woo on surfboards is easy. I just tell him what I want and he simply makes it better than I could ever imagine. 
I was walking on the beach and saw a cow that was in distress. He was struggling. Seemed like his rope was tangled around these logs.
I’m scared of cows but I couldn’t just walk by. I was talking to it saying “I’m just trying to help you so please don’t attack me.” 
Animals are so smart. This cow knew exactly what I was doing.
After untangling the cow, it looked at me, smiled, and waves its tail. After that, I don’t think I could eat beef anymore.
