Loving Bali Again

6

I speared a small Mu 3 months ago, put it in the freezer, and took it out last night.  Steamed it and poured some piping hot peanut oil on it.  It still tasted so fresh.

This is how a fisherman eats a fish.  Nothing goes to waste.

Round 1:  The water was still dirty today but the waves were irresistible.  North winds so perfect offshore conditions all day long.

Rocky was out practicing her backside bottom turns with style.  She wants to ride smaller boards and take her surfing up a level.  That starts today.

Round 2:  Eisuke is only 14 years old and knows how to have fun.  He caught 15 perfect waves  this afternoon as we had the ocean to ourselves.  Surfing with young kids makes me feel young again.

I asked many locals “why is Bali so uncrowded now?”  Their answer was “because there is a war!”  OMG, you totally forget what’s going on in the world when you’re in Bali.  I stayed in Kuta, Siminyak and   Jimbaran.  It was empty.  No tourists and no traffic.  Such a weird feeling, but I loved it.  That reminded me of the old Bali 35 years ago.  I think I’m falling in love with Bali again.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide