Tripping Out

9

Today we took out bigger boards and caught everything!  The waves were good this afternoon and not too many people out.  Hashimoto-san had a perfect session!

Look how green Diamond Head is!  It doesn’t get any greener than this.

Calm and cool.  If you rode a shortboard today, you wouldn’t have fun.  But if you rode a good mid length today, you will have a blast.

I was counting building today.  I counted 30 just in this area.  When I was in high school, there use to be only 2 high rises.  Kind of makes me sad.

Seems like the waves came up a little this afternoon.  The water is cleaner but not clear yet.  Little cold north winds but everything gets warm when you’re catching waves like this.

I’ve been having fun with some DIY projects.  It’s so rewarding to save thousands of dollars and spend that on surfboards instead.  Haha.

I’m not a pro, but I’m going to get there soon.

I only know how to work in slippers.   If I wear shoes, it’s more dangerous because I will trip and fall.  You should see me when I’m walking through airports with shoes.  I’m tripping on everything.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide