Summer is here! The trade winds are finally back so all my secret wind swell spots are good again! Too wild for anyone to surf so I’m enjoying these spots to myself. This morning, I had one thing on my mind. Hunt for a cleaner wave, position yourself in the right place, and push as hard as possible. 
There is only a small section in the wave that will let you push at a 100%. It’s hard to find so if you find it, do it. I’m looking forward to tomorrow! 
These are my 2 best surfboard travel bags. Very light and good quality Creature of Leisure bags. One is a shortboard triple, and the other is a fish double. I can fit 6 surfboards in there. 
If you ever go to Bali, use GRAB. It’s very cheap. 
And if you ever go to Bali, stay at a good place like this. Location is everything.
This wave was 50 steps from my room. So remember, location is everything. This is a spot I’m definitely going back to!
