Cold Water to Hot Sake…

298

good cold tuesday evening.[:???:][:???:][:???:] i don’t remember a day in my life in hawaii colder than today…. i was freezing my ass off all day long. another busy day. taxes, airplane tickets, and computer backup all day long…

i had to get out of the house so i drove through waikiki. stopped by queen’s and the waves looked super fun for longboarding. knee/waist high, sunny, and perfect…

then i drove by diamond head. in the whole ocean, there were 2 surfers out. i was going to paddle out but when i looked around the corner and seen bigger waves with nobody out, i was there. i ran down the hill in my trunks, looked out and seen head high sets with nobody around, jumped in the water, and screamed!! [:???:][:???:] the water was freezing cold!!! is it the current? the wind? what’s going on with hawaii? if this was japan, i’d be in a full suit for sure.. i surfed for 30 min and had to come in because i was freezing cold… but had a great surf by myself…

what do you do when your freezing cold? eat ramen… kimura-san left some ramen for me before he went back to japan. gosh, it was so good. there aren’t too many places with good ramen in hawaii so i always make my own. this one was the best!! i think it’s hokkaido ramen… ummm

the nori, egg, and kimchee doesn’t come with it. i just added it in. today, i had the best ramen on the island, right in my house…

hey, check out my dinner tonight. wow, feels like i’m in japan…

and last, thanks to local motion maki-san for sending me this photo. i can’t wait to go to japan and get served hot sake by a seal…. [:??????:][:??????:]

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide