The start to another beautiful day.
Round 1: When I paddled out around 5:15am, the waves were still small. The ocean was calm but you could feel the energy of the new swell.
Gen Asano was out practicing for the contest. The waves started to get bigger quickly.
I had my camera trying to take photos. Then behind this wave were 5 big sets. I tried to go under and the wave picked me up and slammed me and my board down to the reef. It was so powerful. Then I dodged 5 more sets and when I looked around, I was out past the red buoy. I couldn’t believe how fast the waves came up!
Right as I got in, lifeguards spotted 2 aggressive sharks in the lineup. They still ran the contest. I think that’s very risky considering there were little kids in the contest. And around the corner at Diamond Head, somebody got attacked by a shark. What a crazy morning.
Round 2: My first session of the year at Big Rights! So happy to be back at surf spot i feel very comfortable at. It feels like home.
There was a balloon getting blown out to sea. I see people trying to take it in like that but it’s very difficult.
The easiest way is to grab it, pop it, and put it in your trunks or bikini.
Just like this. Please keep our oceans clean.
