Today I felt like surfing without a crowd so I chose to go to Diamond Head. When I pulled up, there were only 2 surfers out. Why? The waves were so good! I put on my trunks, waxed my board, and ran down the mountain.
Right as I was to jump in, I remembered there was a shark attack yesterday out there. Now I get it. That’s why nobody wanted to surf out there. It turned out to be the most peaceful surf sessions I had in a very long time. Yes, there are sharks out there, and there are sharks everywhere. Remember, sharks can swim.
I surfed 2 rounds yesterday at Ala Moana for 3 hours. Tight lineups and crowded. Today was different. A very big ocean with lots of space to myself. Today’s session felt a hundred times better. That’s the power of Diamond Head.
