Round 1: Paddled out in the dark. We were the first ones out at Bowls early this morning. The waves were so good! Big, challenging, strong current, and very powerful. I love days like today.
When I came in, this was the parking. Pretty empty. This is how it is when the waves get big. And when it gets small, it’s the opposite. I went home to take a nap and get ready for round 2.
Round 2: I was desperate to find a good wave this afternoon so I drove around and around. Then I remembered a spot that breaks only when the south swell is over 6′. Today was the perfect day for that. Perfect point right and left and nobody except me, myself, and I. This was probably my best session of the year so far. The waves were so smooth that you can do anything you want on it.
I rode my smallest shortboard this morning and afternoon. I just wanted to connect and feel the wave more. It cut like a knife in butter. Tomorrow the swell is getting even bigger with another giant swell next week. This summer is becoming to be GREAT!
