The south swell is still BIG! I waited until the sun came up today because this spot has a lot of sharks early in the morning. And that’s why nobody surfs out here. BUT, when the waves get big, it’s so good. I paddled out mid-morning. The strategy to surfing out here is to wait in the inside for the clean open waves. The sets are big and close out so you just have to keep dodging them. You have to be mentally prepared to get double overhead powerful waves breaking on your head over and over.
When a medium wave comes, you have to paddle in and catch it. If you miss it, 6 to 8 waves behind it will punish you. So yes, I paddle as fast as I can and make sure I’m on every wave I commit to.
From there, it’s so easy because the wave is so perfect. Lots of power and easy to surf.
I just love how my shortboard feels on bigger waves.
My goal was to catch 5 waves and not get pounded by the big ones.
That didn’t happen. After each wave I caught, I had to paddle back out through huge sets like this. That wasn’t fun at all.
If you can’t duck dive deep, you can’t surf out here. And you better hold on to your board because if you lose it or break it, you’re in danger. There are no lifeguards, super strong current, jagged rocks, and one of the most dangerous spots on the island.
I surfed all alone again and felt so free. Tomorrow same thing!
