The waves were pretty fun this morning. Chest high sets and still good. Perfect for the longboard girls.
The last month has been a journey. Surfed so many different spots and met so many old time local friends. I haven’t seen Mark Yoshizawa in years. One of the old school Big Rights boys.
There have been many sessions I surfed all alone. Those were my favorite times by far. To have the entire lineup to yourself is pretty rare in Hawaii. Sometimes I feel like I’m own a solo surf trip.
And there were times I explored, and got hurt. This day I got pounded by the waves on the rocks and still have sea urchin stuck deep in my foot. It’s been over 3 weeks and I feel the pain in each step I take.
The early morning sessions are mandatory. No matter where I surf, I’m paddling out before the sun comes up. Thank you Neal for this photo from dawn patrol at the Big Bowl.
I went back on my computer searching for the next trip. Maybe just go and explore some deep culture? Or maybe chase a typhoon in Japan? Still deciding and won’t know until Mother Nature calls.
Tickets are kind of expensive now. Keeping an eye out and once I see a deal, I’m clicking “BOOK!”
