I slept in this morning because I was going to take a day off. Well, I usually wake up at 2:30am but woke up at 3am. I did my daily workout and when it got to 5am, I felt like getting wet. I’m just going to go out and get 1 wave because I thought the waves were junky. Well, I was wrong. Yesterday was junky, today was 10x better. Just ask Barak.
New swell direction so perfect lefts all morning.
It’s so crazy how one day could be so junky, and the next day so epic. We were all wondering why.
Uncle Ray had an easy time gliding into perfect waves like this.
Looking from behind.
John on a good one this morning. Three days ago was junky. Two days ago was good. Yesterday was junky. Today was good. What do you think about tomorrow?
Thank you Neal for the super cool photo from behind the Big Bowl.
There were 2 recent shark attacks at Diamond Head. One was reported and on the news, the other wasn’t. One guy is famous, and the other chose to be anonymous. I got a text from the Diamond Head locals so I know it happened. And if you think avoiding Diamond Head is the smart thing to do, think again. Sharks can swim.
