Foil/Surf/Dive

9

Last night we celebrated my sisters and Joshua’s birthday.  A big family gathering with lots of love and laughter.  Good to see Seth back home and all the kids playing around.  

Shizume-san was surfing good yesterday.  The waves were slow but he was surfing fast.

Nice turns and surfing a lot better than last year.

This morning we went on a boat trip.  I keep on forgetting I have a boat.  Nothing beats this.  

I haven’t foiled in a very long time so I didn’t even know if I remembered.  Once I got up on my first wave, the feeling of flying came back pretty fast.  It felt so free!  Then I went back to the boat to grab my surfboard because the waves were so good.  

I was once the most hated guy at this spot because I was the first one to foil there.  Most surfers hate foilers so I get it.  Today, I felt welcomed back and all the uncles were so nice to me.  Thanks guys and girls for making me feel so welcomed.  

Malia on a smooth one.

Jerome on the 8’0.

Then I put on my mask and scrubbed the bottom of the boat.  Foil, surf, and dive.  No wonder I came home and took a 3 hour nap.  Another great day in the ocean!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide