Round 1: I had a wonderful time surfing with these cool surfers. All college classmates on a surf trip to Hawaii. These surfers are in their mid 60’s and know how to have fun!
Ozawa-san surfing really good. Very calm and always smiling.
Shimodamura-san surfed with a lot of experience. Lots of energy and long rides.
My friend Brady had his drone and took some amazing videos of everyone. He filmed all the rides. I’m looking forward to downloading the footage tomorrow. Stay tuned.
When my family gives me fresh fish, I immediately clean it and prepare it for the next meal. This is called “Halalu” and is best when it’s deep fried.
It is an island favorite treat. If you deep fry it properly, you can eat the bones and all. A bowl of hot rice on the side and this was my lunch for today.
Round 2: When you have the whole ocean with just a couple of other surfers, you can’t complain. You just focus, surf, learn, and be grateful and free. Every time I surf out here, I feel so GRATEFUL and FREE!
Nakahodo-san is feeling the freedom of paddling and riding any wave he wants. It’s so cool to see. Anyway, there are 3 more south swells on the way. Get ready for another month of surf, surf, and surf!
