i’ve been meeting some cool surfers from japan. this is Miyata-san from toyama. Miyata-san has been surfing for 18 years and i was really surprised how good he surfed. i took him to nanakuli tracks yesterday on the west side and like usual, that was the best spot on the island. there were other spots that were smaller but since his level was so high, i wanted him to surf the best wave on the island yesterday. yes, it was crowded, but if you surfed for 18 years, you know how to get your waves. besides the 30 or so hungry hawaiian locals, Miyata-san got his fair share. a great session, a great surfer, and a great sunset after. thank you Miyata-san for a great surfing day in paradise!
the other day i took Kenji-san to surf pipeline for the first time in his life. he seemed pretty nervous and so was i. i know people might think i’m crazy to take people surfing at one of the most dangerous spots in the world, but that’s how i was taught. tony moniz took me out to the biggest, heaviest, and craziest surf hawaii has to offer when i first started surfing the north shore. we use to paddle out to spots where nobody else wanted anything to do with it. i was scared as shit, but that made me become a better surfer. and if i take people surfing, my main goal is to make them better surfers too. a lot of japanese surfers don’t have confidence when it comes to the north shore of hawaii. it’s my job to give them the confidence and the way is to make them overcome their fear. once you can survive pipeline, you can survive anything. tony’s wife, or my sister tammy took this photo from the billabong house. IF YOU DON’T GO, YOU DON’T KNOW!
was over at kyle’s house the other day going over the footage of free diving in japan. the next Hawaii Skin Diver TV show is going to be cool! stay tuned.
