When the waves are small, this parking lot is full in the morning. When the waves are big, it’s not so full. And when the waves are HUGE like today, it’s empty. I can’t see the waves when I arrive in the morning but I can see the parking lot and it will tell you the size.
From the beach, you can’t really tell how big the waves are because we’re paddling out in the dark. But once you reach the waves, you can feel the energy. There was a lot of power in this new swell and the waves were rolling in like mountains. 
We all caught a few waves and were having fun. The girls were surfing on their own and then the horizon suddenly turned dark. You could no longer see the sky, all you could see was a black mountain that looked 20′ high. It broke on our heads and everyone got pounded. Then we regrouped and paddled back out again and again. The girls were super brave today! 
One set broke outside the red buoy. One surfer panicked when the big set wiped us all out. He went in. It was a very crazy big wave morning with lots of adrenaline and excitement. The girls were so happy just to survive today. One uncle asked them what they were doing out there. Another uncle asked them if they were catching the small waves on the inside. No, they were catching the big sets on the outside and having the time of their lives!
