Round 1: I had a great time with this nice couple from Hokkaido. They caught some really good waves. During the session, I was watching Bowls from the inside and realized it was a lot bigger than expected. The swell direction was a little different from the day before. It was then I knew where I was going to go in the afternoon. And I knew it was going to be EPIC!
The best way to get there is by boat. I don’t like taking Mayuki out alone but sometimes you just have to do what you have to do. I pull up from behind the wave and couldn’t believe how big it was. I drop the anchor, wax my surfboard, and paddle to the lineup as fast as possible. Then I see a big set approaching.
I position myself and I only had one thing in my mind which was to GET BARRELED! I’m on my smallest shortboard on purpose because it feels like part of my soul. The takeoff is good, the angle is perfect, and everything else came natural. A nice barrel followed by barrel after barrel. It was the best session of the summer for me. Sunburnt and hungry, I drove home the happiest man in the world. On the days you least expect things, the ocean can fulfill your dreams. This is surfing, this is life…
