Round 1: Bowls looked too small so we drove to the east side of the island and searched for bigger waves. It was so beautiful to be in the wild ocean again.
Thanks to this hurricane, the waves were so good! Mighty Mouse and I were the only ones surfing this powerful wave. Clean water, lots of wildlife, and probably the biggest waves on the island today. We scored!
I love it out here because the seabirds like to surf the waves too. You’re riding a wave and a bird is weaving in and out of the swell. It’s pretty cool to experience. Watching that made me want to foil again so I can feel just like a bird.
They will come directly straight for you and do a slight turn just before hitting you in the face. You can see their eyes looking right at you.
Round 2: Back to the south shore. OMG, it was supposed to rain all day today. What rain? It was blue sky and clear water. 
Ken-san catching some good waves today. It’s always so inspiring to surf with surfers older than me. It makes me want to keep on surfing forever. 
Mai-chan surfed for the very first time in her life and she stood up on her very first wave. Perfect style and smiling the whole way. Amazing!
It was such a great day for all surfers in Hawaii! Tomorrow more waves with north winds so all the secret spots are going to be so good! Goodnight.
