Round 1: It was a beautiful morning. When I woke up, I heard the stream behind my house fully flowing with water from the mountain. That meant Bowls will be dirty water for sure. So we drove the opposite way to the east side. Clean water, shoulder high waves, and very peaceful. It was just the girls and the birds again.
I was sitting on my board in the channel watching the girls surf.
You can appreciate the small things in life out here. You don’t have to talk to people, you don’t have to take turns, and you don’t have any type of aggression. Out here, it’s just You vs. Nature.
We celebrated another birthday last night at the Moniz house. I was talking to Micah, Joshua, and Seth about my plans of searching for a barrel somewhere in this world. I’ve been wanting to go somewhere and get the best barrels of my life but most spots are way too crowded. So when I asked them where Uncle Kirby should go, they all said at once the exact same surf spot. A surf spot I’ve never heard of before. They said it’s not crowded because it’s super crazy and you will definitely get the biggest and best barrels of your life. I wrote the name of the little town located in South America and went straight home to research it. Now I know exactly where my next surf trip will be and I’m very excited about it. It’s far, it’s expensive, and it’s for experts only. My nephews said I can do it so I’m going to do it!
OMG, I was so excited that I forgot to say Happy Birthday to Kaira. Happy Birthday Kaira!
