When I was a teenager, there was no such thing as grabbing your rail in the barrel. Nobody invented it yet. So we would do this “layback” where you lay your body back into the wave and watch the lip go over your head while in the barrel. It’s pretty hard to do but so far, I’ve got some of my best backside barrels of the summer doing the “layback.” This is in the Big Bowl with photo taken by Neal Miyake…
