Round 1: It’s so cool to see the girls pushing each other to higher levels of surfing. Each session I can see improvements and much better technique. Ogasawara-san charging a set on the 6’4.
Keeping calm and enjoying the ride.
Kotaki-san surfs really smooth and is always in control. Lots of flow and completing the long rides.
If I trust you, I will position myself in your path just to get these kind of photos. If I don’t trust you, I won’t. So the goal is to keep calm and you will get a photo like this someday.
Mighty Mouse has put in so many hours in the ocean. Practicing hard each day and learning so much. Her wave knowledge has gotten pretty high.
A different board each day ridden how it wants to be ridden.
Round 2: This afternoon was amazing. A super high tide so very easy to surf. It seemed like the waves got a lot bigger than this morning.
Smooth style aiming straight towards the Rainbow Tower.
When I checked my thermometer at home before I left to surf, it read 97F. That’s 36C. OMG, if you don’t have good protection, you will burn. Mighty Mouse was fully covered.
Head high sets and some even bigger.
I had a blast on my twin fin. It’s crazy how much I love surfing again!
Hurricane Lala left a lot of damage all over the islands. Please be careful because I actually saw a lady sitting under this bus stop. If that falls, she’s dead.
