A Small Sacrifice!

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yesterday was an awesome day. i woke up early, checked the waves, and did something i usually don’t do. instead of going to the north shore to surf perfect waves, i decided to stay in town to surf with all my friends that are in town. the waves looked really small at bowls but since 10 of my friends from japan decided to surf, i paddled out. we had the spot to ourselves and the waves kept on getting better, and better. and bigger and bigger. we scored good waves and i was so happy that i lost my voice from yelling so much. it was so fun watching everybody catch good waves and everybody laughing and smiling. it was such a perfect day!!!!

then we all walked up to the ilikai to kimura-san’s room for a ramen party. sego-san from maruyata wakayama ramen bought 12 packs of ramen from wakayama, including charsiu, green onions, and everything else individually wrapped. he cooked 3 rounds of ramen for all of us and all i have to say is “OMG!” it was so good and like i said before, there is no other ramen like it. it’s by far the best ramen i’ve ever ate and there is no place in hawaii that comes even close. the lucky 12 of us scored a gourmet wakayama ramen lunch at the ilikai. thank you sego-san! i’m glad i decided to skip my north shore session and stay in town with all of my good surfer friends. before it would be such a big sacrifice for me, but now, it was my pleasure. no barrel in the world could have given me the fulfillment i got yesterday surfing good waves and eating good food with my friends. i took photos but got home too late last night to download them. stay tuned.
after that, a few of us went to the “Red Sea” house in kaneohe where we all ate like pigs. i had 3 rounds of servings and gained at least 2 kilos. i want to thank the nakamoto family for always making us feel like family. have a safe trip to palau and see you when you get back. skin diver tv, japan series coming up soon. it’s going to be an interesting show for sure!
i feel so happy. i don’t know if it’s the surf, or if it’s my wonderful friends. maybe both is making me love my life even more and more. i feel so lucky to have this beautiful ocean around me, and so many beautiful friends to share it with. want to wish ayumi-chan a safe trip back to chigasaki. i was stoked to see you ripping! keep on surfing and keep on smiling!
ps. for all of you who missed the ramen party, i’m really sorry. things happen fast around here and so you have to be in the right place at the right time. i tell all the people i teach surfing that “timing is everything.” and i feel the same when it comes to something so special like wakayama ramen in hawaii. “timing is everything!”

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide