i couldn’t believe i surfed for almost 5 hours yesterday. i went out early morning when it was still dark, kept on surfing and lost track of time. when i seen my friend come back out for his second session, i knew i was out there too long. i came in, drank 1 liter of water, drove 100mph hour back to town in 40 minutes, met ryosuke and sego for a vietnam lunch, went to buy kosei-sans speargun, jumped on the harley for an evening ride, and had dinner with everybody. as i was surfing, i was thinking to myself, “wow, what a great lifestyle i have. surf town one day, surf north the next. hang out with friends, eat good food, laugh, smile, and just enjoying life.” i got barreled in the morning, rode the harley into the sunset, and slept like a baby.
huge north/west swell coming next week! waves for everybody!
seen the big boat out near the lineup in waikiki? that is to suck sand from the ocean and replenish the beach. i’m totally against messing around with nature. yes, waikiki use to be all rocks. they brought in sand from other areas of the island so tourists can sit on it. back in the days, waikiki use to have a beautiful reef with lots of fish. now, it’s all killed by the sand and you’ll be lucky to find a single nemo in the water. tourism is hawaii’s industry, and the government will do anything to get them here. didn’t they learn after building magic island?
this is the chore list at the billabong house on the north shore. all the pro’s and aspiring pro surfers have responsibilities to do everyday. i think this is a great idea. and i think my sister is behind all of this. if i was managing the billabong house, i’d make those kids wash my car and give me daily massages. haha.
