good evening. gosh, can you believe i surfed for 4 hours this morning at bowls? rode a longboard and ended up stand up paddle board surfing. good workout and good fun. the waves were clean in the beginning, then a little windy, then super clean again. one surfer out, then 4, then it was only us. these are the times i’m so happy to live in town because if i woke up in the country with the bad weather and waves, i would just go back to sleep. but it’s hard to go back to sleep in town when the waves are fun and the sun is out. i wonder how tomorrow will be but no matter if i stay in town, or go to the north shore, i’m having fun surfing. hope you do too….
wanted to thank kitajima-san for bringing me this present from ishigaki, japan. this is special sugar made from sugar cane. i’m going to drop one in my hot tea right now….
**10 years ago, i use to complain about every little thing. like “the waves suck”, “how could you do that”, “my beer is warm”, or “my car is getting old”. now days, i hardly complain about anything. why?
because my little complaints are stupid compared to others around this world. there are many americans on the front line fighting for my freedom, many separated from their loved ones, and many young men dying every single day. remember that we’re still in a war that seems to have no end. if anybody should be complaining, it should be them….
and the 80,000+ people that died in china after that big earthquake. i feel for those families…. so the next time you complain about something so small, get over it. i see people in restaurants complaining about little things like food being late or water in their cups not being filled to the top. it kind of makes me sick to my stomach. i wish we could all appreciate our lives more, think positive, and just be happy. life is just too short….
